So for my recent 24th Birthday, my brother (Patrick) took Annie and I over to Hale'iwa, the main town on Oahu's North Shore where sits an incredible Mexican restaurant called Cholo's. He took us there for some awesome homestyle mexican food with a chili verde that is so spicy it feels like there are coals inside you warming you from the inside out. So this chili verde is delicious and rocks my face every time I have it.
Anyway, we decided that the best way to eat this delicious fiesta de comida would be to do a little bodysurfing on the recently-breaking North Shore. Now I have been surfing at Sandy Beach, close to where I live and it is an awesome beach break. The deal is, though, Beach breaks are way different from reef breaks, which is what the North Shore mostly has. So we were trying to surf the shore break over at Waimea Bay which is a beach break similar to Sandy's, but it wasn't breaking at all, even though it was supposed to be a 3-5 foot day (read 6-10 foot faces). So Waimea wasn't breaking, and we decide to go look for a reef break where we could ride and not get run over by surf boards. So we checked out the Pipeline and there was nothing there for us, and then we came back and randomly found a break that was close to shore. So we get to this place and it's the first place we see other bodysurfers, but no one is in the water yet.
Yet eventually the other guys got in so I followed and we were swimming over a nice reef with good size, clean, peeling waves and I finally tried for one, caught it and rode all the way to shore on a beautiful, fast wave. All that to say the experience rocked, and even though it wasn't a huge day, there was still some nice size and it was a great first reef-break-day. So here are a couple pics. the one where you cant see the face is me at the end of one of the awesome rides. word guys.
So after all this, I know it's a little adolescent and vain but I'm as stoked as a little grom about this and wanted everyone to see Pat and I surfing Off The Walls over on the North Shore.
OIL
